The Southern Alps of New Zealand are not known for quality alpine rock. However in a week spent on the upper Fox Glacier during a period where conditions were not ideal for snow and ice routes, that is exactly what we found. Adventurous terrain, tricky protection, quality climbing and little to no prior route information made for a fun and adventurous week out.
New Zealand Rocks
Setting effective goals
Life in the Valley
More than 4 million people a year visit Yosemite Valley, 75% during the six months from May to October. Doing the math that is over 16,000 people per day during peak season. Given those stats you are likely to think it’s a pretty crazy place, hard to get around and do what you want to do. For the most part however I found life in the Valley incredible easy, relaxed and inspiring.
Gear Review - Macpac Pursuit 40L Climbing Pack
hen you are venturing into the mountains or on long multi-pitch climbs, you need a good climbing pack. Something that is lightweight yet durable, big enough to carry what you need without being cumbersome and is easy to manage. The Pursuit 40L climbing pack designed by Macpac fits that bill and has been a key part of the Vertical Year.
In a day
Climbing is a funny activity in that there really are no rules, yet we all play these funny games while imposing our own brand of style and ethics to any given ascent. I am no exception and enjoy partaking in the games climbers play. With its moderate approaches and close travel proximities to Huaraz, the Cordillera Blanca provided the perfect playground to test how much difficult terrain I could cover in a day.
A changing landscape
The Cordillera Blanca and the Great Barrier Reef don’t share much in common. Perhaps the exception is that both may no longer exist within a generation or two. The name Cordillera Blanca (meaning white range) could seem inappropriate for mountains without permanent snow, while the Great Barrier Reef could possess no life at all. An incredibly sad thought.
The financial pursuit of happiness
When we are free to focus on things other than survival necessities, we should be focusing on what brings us happiness and fulfillment. However, it seems somewhere along the way a lot of us have lost or way. We are being bombarded with ads and consumerist agendas which has led us to forget that we are free to pursue happiness in our own way. This is my story of how I changed my priorities, providing myself the freedom to pursue my dreams.
Failure on Tocllaraju
Tocllaraju sits in the Ishinca valley and it’s West Face is the first major feature you see entering base camp. Standing tall, proud, clean and utterly beautiful it begs to be climbed. Hence, the decision to turn around at the bottom of the face was devastating for me. The full reasoning for my decision however, would not become clear to me until I had almost descended the valley.
Turning a cycle of anxiety into a cycle of confidence
Confidence doesn’t come naturally for most of us. Often it is our anxiety that holds us back. By understanding the mechanisms behind how these emotions develop we can help tip the odds in favour of building confidence. The story of my friend and climbing partner Andrew Banks is a great example of this.